Buying ABC Clocking switch


Hi everybody!

Im buying an ABC Clocking switch if anybody have anyone im willing to pay for it. I think abc is no longer making them :frowning:

Thank you.


I’m sorry RKiddo, I have no spare switches right now.
If no one other help you, I’m ready sell you my own.
I’m simply not playing since months and have no idea when I will.


Thank you very much abcde123!

Please tell me where i can send the payment, and i will glady do it.

I will PM you, thank you again!


[quote=“abcde123, post:2, topic:1160”]I’m sorry RKiddo, I have no spare switches right now.
If no one other help you, I’m ready sell you my own.
I’m simply not playing since months and have no idea when I will.
abc…[/quote]Why not? You had a good idea about abc zaps. You can use them in vb. Instead of zaps do as l describe in " wheel signature" topic… the one lucky_strike started , and you are there alife and kicking egein. No need ff, unless for timer.


Advice’s, advices…
Man waite for requests.


[quote=“abcde123, post:5, topic:1160”]Lol.
Advice’s, advices…
Man waite for requests.[/quote]You are right, sry for disturbance. :stuck_out_tongue:
So this is your way to not being looser anymore. Nice profile picture :-\


ABC, is this a good time for you to reveal your ABC’s switch secret recipe before it vanish into thin air while you’re hibernating? ;D ;D … that way the knowledge will get pass on to others. I recall in an old post you had considered this option… LOL :smiley:
Of course it’s your call to continue keeping it a secret.


There is no secret.
It’s enough to have:
-practice with composites fabrics and materials; fiberglass, carbon fibers, resins.
-abilities to make mold.
-practice witch vacuum modeling.

  • vacuum pomp, and all necessary tools.
    I can teach.
    Well, someone who meets above do not need any advices.


[quote=“abcde123, post:8, topic:1160”]There is no secret.
It’s enough to have:
-practice with composites fabrics and materials; fiberglass, carbon fibers, resins.
-abilities to make mold.
-practice witch vacuum modeling.

  • vacuum pomp, and all necessary tools.
    I can teach.
    Well, someone who meets above do not need any advices.[/quote] one how to video on youtube would be cool.


Ok guys looks like switch can win game :slight_smile:


Abc’s switch was a big improvement for those wishing to clock using their toe. If someone can create an edge using the RC in this way it could only be of benefit for most is my opinion.


I was working on a switch using carbon fibre

I bought several different “Newton resistances” of tact switches

I had it close to a decent prototype but had pressing personal things to do - including moving!

I intend to make such a switch;

When I do (could be weeks or months) I’ll let Forrester know and we can go from there



Very good, keep going.
If you need advice or support just ask.


As just an observation from using toe switches, the best ones are perfect for clocking on floorboards ect, I personally found not so good when placed in a shoe when the non linear surface and curvature of the toe can cause pressure displacement and soft carpet making this worse. To shape the switch more ergonomically may help here? The feel and operation of abc’s switch I thought to be perfect bare foot or in socks against a floorboard and would have liked the exact same feeling in shoes but never achieved this personally.


This is part of the “perfect” switch I’m striving for

I plan to include things like a rough surface where the toe sets (emery cloth/sand paper) - perhaps a wider base OR a Velcro-like bottom to attach to the inside of the shoe

It may be advisable to have an insert into the shoe for the front toes region (a firm piece of thin metal that lays in the entire toe and front/bottom of the foot)

A firm BOOT as opposed to a tight fitting shoe would be advisable…like a workboot with steel toes and perhaps a size too large so there is plenty of clearance at the front of the foot and no visible movement when you lift and press your toe

Essential is a firm but slightly flexible material that rigidly sits a millimetre or two above the mounted switch (which is encased in a U-shaped carbon fibre mold)

This will move just enough to quickly depress and release the switch

Likewise a firm tact switch is needed - not TOO firm; not too easy…such a switch will be felt to be pressed as the “click” will be felt in the toe; but it will not be loud enough to hear…

There is a lot to consider for this switch; and I believe I have it all figured-out…just need to be sure the material all works as planned…and sets permanently once the form (carbon fibre and epoxy) completely sets…I was using a slow-setting epoxy which was a time-waster…

Looking to get this moving forward soon



I agree with BB switch does not predict. Predicts always Player with FF.
Well, good toe switch helps.
Covers RC play, gives hands free.
After some experience gives results and precision same as finger switch.
In real conditions comfortable and safe toe clicking gives better results over always nervous and somehow hidden finger clicking. This is my opinion, you must not agree.
The matter is learn toe clicking without any even small move of the shoe- foot-leg.
If you can recognize easily player who during spin repeats always same; observes wheel and hide one hand, please understand staff can recognize it also.

Regular switch placed under my toe brings problems;
switch was too high, needs too much space in the shoe toe area.
Switches are developed and made for finger operation not toe. Toes are not as sensitive as fingers. Toes are bigger and stronger than fingers.
Switches are not proofed against big pressure from toes and human weight when walking.
placed “button up” under the toe produced pain after even short play.
placed up side down was better, gives pain after longer play but brings new problems; toe is not flat, insole in the shoe under the toe isn’t flat also.(except brand new shoes). There are kind of concave.
Please analyze two surfaces shaped as concave plus switch in the middle.
If you press on the side of concave slot between surfaces decreases only there, on the other side increases! In the middle where switch is placed above slot stays almost without change- no signal to the ff!
switch have direct contact with toe (socks does no matter) , moisture and dust destroys contact blades inside the switch very fast.
Rubber or silicone membrane inside some switches protects against dust and moisture but makes switch very soft and “silent” player cannot feel if he closed the switch. So need to press harder. Harder means faster feel tired, pain again, and unnecessary foot nervous moves.
Cables; naked cables under toe brakes easily.
There is more…

My solution is;
Flat very thin switch holder. Kind of pedal.
Dimensions: 22-25 mm x 32-35mm, thickness 3,5 mm opened, 2,5 mm closed.
Made out of fiber glass and carbon.
(carbon fibers are perfect conductor so inside I use glass fibers as contraction and also insulator. )
Composite materials and flat shape gives perfect result. No matter where I push holder; in the middle, or on the edge switch inside clicks. No matter if insole under switch is flat or shaped as toe switch inside clicks.
Holder reacts as kind of the spring – detent. Gives perfect filling every time when switch is pressed.
Clear confirmation if we sent signal to ff.
Inside holder there is a “room” for part of regular switch.
This is plastic base of the regular switch with connectors milled to the thickness 1-1,2 mm.
Connecting concave blade are protected by thin adhesive tape. I usually use two blades from two
“hard” switches or combination “soft” and “hard” blade. Two blades plus composite holder gives switch resistant for toe operation. Adhesive tape protects blades against dust and moisture.
Cables: I use only cables from mobile ear phones. The only soft and strong wires designed for continuous bending.
Construction allows easy replacement of the switch, blades only, or cables.
All above checked in practice during very long use.

Summary, plenty of precision hand made dirty work, expensive fabrics, earphones. Working on fiberglass such as sanding an polishing gives for beginners pain like thousands sharp needles everywhere into the skin.
Payment does not bring income.
Shipment shows my location, payment shows my identity, I need to know buyer data for the shipment, etc.
If there is one who can continue I can teach or help for free.

@ Eirescott it looks you are trying to walk similar way I went 5 years ago.

I can tell you again keep going, and do it better.
Avoid curved surfaces on switch holder. After 3-4 prototypes I find only flat gives always sure result.
Avoid wires under human foot, or on the side. No matter where placed inside insole, under insole, under shoe lining everywhere brakes very fast, during walking.
Only cable which goes over the foot resists.

For holder I use mold which goes inside. Guess how to remove it from ready holder when resin is cured.
After cutting off remaining laminate I use boiling water for safety heat (under 100 C) and get resin elastic. For it you should use composition of resin (harder ) which allows it.
I use in total 1500- 1700 g/m2 of fibers. Vacuum molding which allows remove all unnecessary resin out of fibers, best compression and removes out air bulbs. In ready item resin should be maximum 50-55 % of fibers weight.

If problems ask by pm.

Upssss. I forgot tell you. During 3-4 years I sold about 10 pieces.
People here do not want it, maybe they are not playing with RC, they find own way or have no money at all.


I have tried many different approaches, including steel toe caps. It is simply not so easy to merge a switch and shoe that has not been created for this purpose is what I have found. Possibly you can do better, here we can only hope.

Feel wise, abc’s switch was great in my opinion and well made, but like all things we may find limitations in individual circumstances.